DinoLord wrote:Nice Spino Dino! (hehe it rhymes) I feel it'd look great with a blue or orange/brownish paint job. What did you use for the thumb part? It looks really good.

Have you guys seen the new Papo Ankylosaurus? It looks pretty good, and is JP based! That reminds me, most of the new 2011 Safaris will be coming out by February (I'll have them for sale then).

Xolag wrote:Hello Lords of the Past

Dino90210 wrote:

Xolag wrote:Hello Lords of the Past

[youtube]http://m.youtube.com/index?desktop_uri=%2F&gl=US#/watch?xl=xl_blazer&v=prgm4eKq6d4[/youtube] HEY!!!!

Dadltondmd wrote:

Dino90210 wrote:

Dadltondmd wrote:I am working on a Concavenator and I was wondering what you guys think I should do for the fin? Do you guys think it had two fins, a big one if front of the hip and a smaller one behind, or one long one?

Awesome, does this mean you're back to creating again? I personally think it had one long fin starting at the hip and running down the tail gradually getting smaller. Like if you shaved off the first half of the top of an Acro's spine.

yeah, but if I upload it on my laptop it will look like crap so I'll probably still wait til after I get a new computer to upload it.

I think it was one long one too, but it's hard to make like that xD. I thought of a cool new (at least new to me) way to make tails more realistic... I'll upload a pic later do you guys can tell me what you think.

Dadltondmd wrote:I am working on a Concavenator and I was wondering what you guys think I should do for the fin? Do you guys think it had two fins, a big one if front of the hip and a smaller one behind, or one long one?

Xolag wrote:Hello Lords of the Past

DinoLord wrote:Well, you use a proportion. My math is a bit rusty, but I think it's something like 1/40 = x/(length of dinosaur in feet). For example, let's calculate the size of a 1:40 T. rex model. 1 x 40 is 40. 40 times x is 40x. That means x = 1. In this case, 1 represents one foot.

DinoLord wrote:If I remember correctly, the DinoTech technique uses cardboard instead. With cardboard, there are problems with clay falling off if it gets too heavy.

DinoLord wrote:I can provide some advice. Here's some of the steps I used to create my Camarsaurus sculpture.

1. Find a good skeletal drawing or sideview of the animal. Here's one that I found after a quick google search. It's based off of Greg Paul's reconstruction, which is quite accurate.

2. Scale it in Microsoft Word or a program like that. The scale is your choice, but the most common one is 1:40.

3. Print it out and cut out the body parts and retape them in the general pose of the sculpture.

4. Use some wire and make a general frame of the animal. When making the frame, make sure that it's smaller than your paper cutout. Also make sure the body isn't too wide.

5. Since Giganotosaurus is a bipedal animal, you may want to include a base in the armature.

6. I use plastilene (oil based) clay, which never dries, because I want to make molds of the sculpt when I am done. However, I imagine Sculpey could work if the wire could withstand the high temperatures when baking the sculpture. Start attaching a thin layer of clay to the armature, and make sure it attaches properly.

7. When the initial layer of clay is added, start adding larger pieces and smoothing out the clay. Finish all the general areas before adding details.

8. Start doing basic details, such as musculature or larger skin folds.

9. After basic details are finished, start doing smaller details such as scales and eyes.

10. Remember to detail your base as well. A volcanic rock would be good for texturing the base.

11. If you're using Sculpey, bake the sculpture and you're done.


Also, take a look at this. Even though it's about sauropods, I think it has some application to other dinosaurs as well.

DinoLord wrote:Sculpting can be quite tough. Using a wire armature helps immensely though. What material are you using?